Paulina Arumsari

eye of the day

The unconventional narrative of Mata Hari written by Paulo Coelho in a novel called “ The Spy “ has become the lead inspiration and influence to the collection as in her costume detail, the side job of military spy  and her relationship with Java island.

Juxtaposing the elements of traditional folk and ceremonial Javanese attire and military uniform detail will help to create a more contemporary look. The aesthetics of the designs will value the beauty of the flawed characters including asymmetry, drapes, roughness, simplicity, intimacy, and appreciation of the ingenuous integrity of natural objects such as pearls and cowrie shells. The color palette is also driven by the name “Mata Hari” which mean “sun”, therefore, all the tones are inspired by the rays of sunlight and the sky itself, which are navy blue, sky blue, dusky pink and burnt mustard.

The selection of fabric choices is a variety of light to a heavyweight and sheer to matte texture in order to create a luxury and rustic ambiance to the garment. Silk organza, dupion, and velvet bring back Mata Hari personality, whereas linen, oilskin, and tweed resemble the traditional look of Javanese culture to enhance the down-to-earth practical and yet very gentle and poetic. Targeting on diffusion line market from designer brands such as, Jacquemus, Ports 1961 and Mother of Pearl.