Rebecca Clough
BEHIND THE WALL
‘Behind the wall’ citizens were subject to excessive egalitarianism in a crashing economy, chronic shortage meant everyday life was bleak. The first AW22 collection draws on the highly representational nature of the functionalist architecture of East Germany and the state approved fashions within 1980’s GDR. Unremitting sombre undertones reflect the lifeless haze and disjointed lived experience, via a thoughtfully fragmented presentation style.
Whilst the follow on collection questions… when Alice fell through the rabbit hole what if she found herself in ‘Berlinland’? This SS23 collection draws on the notion of escapism, embedding ‘Alice in Wonderland’ Georgian Era fashion within an East Berlin context. Alice in wonderland largely weaves the narrative of rejecting dull reality therefore this collection aims to intertwine these absurdly opposite cultures to fashion a narrative of a liberated world in juxtaposition to the repressive regime at the time. Carefully illustrating this tainted fairy-tale via a distilled colour palette whilst caricature illustrations further depict an ethereal quality.
Finally, Burn the Haus Down is a celebration of making and creating; the flamboyant escapism of illegal fashion in East Germany, riotous and defiant, underpinning the spirit of this collection. The collection encompasses the East Berlin Postmodern identity shaped by punks and niche countercultures, with strong and bold outerwear pieces embodying this fashion resistance. Garments become a canvas for self-expression, drawing on the subversive basic trend which constitutes inverted signals of the considered conventional and stylistic innovations to mirror the subversion of totalitarian power by these fashion pioneers. Bold and bright presentations are enhanced by spray painted motifs merging in impulsive unions.